World Heritage Sites : Mudéjar Architecture

Overview

The town of Teruel was conquered by the Muslims in the 8th century. Some four centuries later it was retaken by Alfonso II, King of Aragon. As the Reconquista gradually pushed forward the Christian frontiers, repelling the Muslims, the Muslim communities had two choices – they could either flee or remain under Christian political authority and convert to Christianity. Many fled (Some estimates say as many as 3 million Spanish Muslims were forced to flee.), but some chose to remain. These Muslim people, of mostly pre-Islamic Iberian heritage, were called Mudéjares from the Arabic mudajjan, meaning “permitted to remain”. This name came to be applied also to their style of architecture; although distinctively Moorish or Islamic style, it was in time enriched by contributions from western tradition. Some of the most characteristic architectural and ornamental elements of Mudéjar art are the horseshoe arch, the wooden roofing systems and the complicated and inventive use of bricks and glazed tiles.

In 1986 various Mudéjar monuments in Teruel, dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, were included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. This list was updated in 2001 to include more examples of Mudéjar architecture from other places in Aragon from the same period.

Brief description by UNESCO

The development in the 12th century of Mudejar art in Aragon resulted from the particular political, social and cultural conditions that prevailed in Spain after the Reconquista. This art, influenced by Islamic tradition, also reflects various contemporary European styles, particularly the Gothic. Present until the early 17th century, it is characterized by an extremely refined and inventive use of brick and glazed tiles in architecture, especially in the belfries.

World Heritage Monuments

Tower, roof and dome, Santa María de Mediavilla Cathedral (Teruel) 13th century
A typical Mudejar square shaped church, with three naves and glazed ceramic elements. The central area is decorated with religious and historical pictures. Its most admired feature is the richly decorated Mudejar coffered (sunken panels) ceiling.
Opening times: 11.30am – 2pm; 5.30pm – 9pm

The tower and church of San Pedro (Teruel) 13th century
The decoration of crossed round arches in the church of San Pedro is based on the earlier façade of the mosque in the Hudí palace of La Aljafería in Zaragoza. Inside the church in one of the chapels, you can visit the Mausoleum of the famous Teruel Lovers – according to legend the mummified bodies in the sarcophaguses are those of the ill-starred 13th century lovers, Diego and Isabel, whose different class backgrounds made it impossible for them to be together.

The San Martín church tower (Teruel) 14th century
This small, beautiful church has a square tower with glazed ceramic decorations. Another legend has it that this tower was built to win the affections of a very beautiful Muslim woman. This woman had two suitors and she asked them both to build a Mudéjar tower, promising she would marry the architect whose tower she preferred. When the suitor, who built the Torre de San Martín, realised that his tower wasn’t straight, he jumped to his death from the top of his tower. In good romantic tradition, the beautiful woman of course liked the San Martin tower better than the other!

The Salvador church tower (Teruel) 13th century
This Mudejar tower (renovated in 1993) with its brick façade, double series of arches and rich decoration with ceramic details, is the twin of San Martín. In the church there is a beautiful sculpture of Christ. You can climb to the top of the tower where you have a great view of the Turia Valle.
Address: C/ Nueva

Apse, cloisters and tower of Santa María Colegiata (Calatayud) 14th-16th century
This is also known as Santa María de Mediavilla, as it’s in the centre of the medieval part of Calatayud. This church, despite being Calatayud’s main church, has never been consecrated as a cathedral. The town has a very strong Muslim tradition and indeed the church is built on the site of an old Mosque. The tower is octagonal and the cloisters have a Mudéjar rectangular shape.

Santa Tecla parish church (Cervera de la Cañada) 14th century
A beautiful fortress-church with thick walls and bold towers. Notice particularly the excellent woodwork in the ceiling.

Santa María church (Tobed) second half of 14th century
This church was built in the 14th century and in common with others of this period was designed to double as a fortress. Inside the Mudéjar decoration with plasterwork and paint is splendid. The brick in the exterior is enhanced by glazed ceramic. Visitors are admitted at times of worship.

Mudéjar remains of the Aljafería Palace (Zaragoza) 14th-15th century
La Aljafería is the most important palace of Muslim art in the 11th century. This period was known as the period of taifas (small kingdoms which were strongholds of the Muslims) – at their peak there were as many as 21 different taifas. The rivalry between them extended to the arts and was therefore an unlikely positive force. In the following centuries a great number of modifications were made and Mudéjar decorative patterns were included from the 13th to the 16th century. Nowadays it is the seat of Aragón’s Regional Assembly.
Opening times: Tuesday to Saturday 10am – 2pm; 4pm – 8pm

Church and tower of San Pablo Parish church (Zaragoza) 13th-14th century
Originally Romanesque and later Mudéjar, this church features an octagonal tower in Mudéjar style which dates back to the 14th century and is one of the most beautiful towers in the city.

Apse, parroquieta and dome of La Seo 14th-16th century
La Seo cathedral was Zaragoza’s first Christian cathedral (consecrated in 1119) and was built on the site of a Roman temple, a Visigothic church and a Muslim mosque. It has been added to over the centuries in the prevailing styles of the time with the result that today you can see the Roman, Mudéjar, Gothic and Classical influences.

Suggested Itineraries

Route 1
Zaragoza Cathedral: La Seo de Zaragoza; Churches: San Pablo, Santa María Magdalena, San Miguel de los Navarros, San Gil Abad, Las Fecetas, Santiago el Mayor; Townhall (Ayuntamiento) roof; Palace: La Aljafería; Other: Jewish baths (Baños judíos), Monastery (Monasterio de la Resurrección de las Canonesas del Santo Sepulcro)
Utebo Church of Santa María
Alagón Church of San Pedro Apóstol
Tauste Church of San Antón, Church of Santa María
Magallón Church of Santa María de la Huerta
Borja Church of Santa María, Casa de la Estanca, Church of San Miguel
Tarazona Convento de Santa Ana, Church of Santa María Magdalena, Convento de la Concepción, Cathedral of Santa María de la Huerta

Route 2
Ricla Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora
La Almunia The hermitage of Nuestra Señora de Cabañas de Jalón, Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora
Calatayud Church of San Pedro de los Francos, Church of Santa María
Nuestra Señora de la Peña Sanctuary, Church of San Andrés, Colegiata del Santo Sepulcro
Torralba de Ribota Church of San Félix
Cervera de la Cañada Church of Santa Tecla
Aniñón Church of Nuestra Señora del Castillo
Maluenda The ruins of the church of San Miguel, Church of Saints Justa and Rufina, Church of La Asunción
Morata de Jiloca Church of San Martín de Tours
Terrer Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora
Ateca Church of Santa María, Clock tower
Alahama de Aragón Church of the Natividad de la Santísima Virgen

Route 3
Belchite Virgen del Pueyo Tower, Clock tower, Church of San Martín
Lecera Church of Santa María Magdalena
Muniesa Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora
Montalbán Church of Santiago
Alcañiz Castle of Alcañiz

Route 4
Longares Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora
Tobed Iglesia de Santa María
Paniza Church of Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles
Mainar Church of Santa Ana
Tobed Church of Santa María
Daroca
Church of Santo Domingo de Silos
Church of San Juan de la Cuesta
Palacio de los Luna (perhaps the most important Mudejar building in Aragon)
Herrera de los Navarro: Church of San Juan Bautista

Route 5
Daroca See route 4.
San Martín del Río Church San Martín Obispo
Báguena Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora
Teruel See section on World Heritage Monuments in the city of Teruel

Route 6
Alfajarín Church of San Miguel Arcángel
Puebla de Alfindén Church of La Asunción de Nuestra Señora

For further information on Mudejar villages in Aragón:
http://www.aragoneria.com/mudejard.htm (Spanish only)
http://www.aragob.es/edycul/patrimo/ (Spanish only)

With thanks to Javier Mendivil for the suggested routes and Miguel Angel Latorre for the use of his photos.
With thanks to Sonia Junquer for writing this guide