Geography and maps : Gredos Mountains

Introduction

The Tormes valley is perhaps the wildest and most diverse of all the landscapes of Avila. An ideal place for all nature lovers and of course a great setting for outdoor sports and most of all for mountaineers, climbers and those who enjoy the snow. Canoeing, rafting, pony trekking and mountain biking are also common pastimes in these mountains, situated in the southeast of the province of Avila, between the ranges of Villafranca and Piedrahita and the peaks of the Gredos mountain range. The River Tormes come to life in the municipal borough of Navarredonda de Gredos, 1580metres above sea level. The characteristic landscape is covered with oak, chestnut, wild pine, alders and birch and a great variety of auctoctonous flora. The mountain goat is the emblem of Gredos. The griffin vulture, the otter and many species of amphibians and reptiles live here, adapted to this mountain territory. It is not uncommon to see pairs of black vulture, golden and imperial eagles and many species of hawks all of which nest in the region.
All the villages of the area are typical of mountain terrain; picturesque, adorable. Their houses are built of stone with tiny windows to insulate them from the heat of summer and to keep out the winter cold. The origins of these groups of inhabitants is not clear, although they seem to have been established by the cattle herders who practised transhumance sometime around the 10th century. This seasonal migration of the cattle is still carried on today in the mountain ranges of Avila and is almost a full blown ceremony, subject to it’s own code of honour, and which has been passed down from generation to generation. During the summer months the cattle graze on the common pastures in the mountains, but once the cold and the snows begin the cattle farmers gather together to move them south to Extremadura along the royal drovers’ roads and ancient cattle tracks, moving about 20km per day on a fixed timetable and staying in resting stations overnight. The same route is repeated in the opposite direction once the days grow longer at the start of spring. The heads of cattle create a beautiful spectacle as they return to the Gredos range along the Roman road and cross into Avila through the pass of Puerto del Pico (Gateway of the Peak).

The Cirque of Gredos

The whole area is dotted with numerous beauty spots not to be missed by the tourist, with a wide selection of “Casas Rurales” (Rural holiday cottages) and campsites, and plentiful places to take part in a wide variety of outdoor sports and activities. But lets take a moment here to talk about the Sierra de Gredos (the Gredos Mountain Range) “the rocky heart of Spain”, as defined by the philosopher Miguel de Unamuno,
and the area most visited in the Autonomous Community of Castilla and Leon. The central massif of the range extends from the Puerto del Pico to Tornavacas and includes the great glacial cirque of Gredos. This part of the Gredos range’s beauty is highlighted on gaining the summit of the Mira where the rocky masses become even more impressive, than they are from below. The Galayos peaks can also be seen from here – temptation for all climbers – and an obligatory stopping point for viewing their capricious granite forms. The summit of the Morezon pokes it’s head above the cold and crystal clear waters of the Laguna Grande (large lagoon), enclosed on all sides by the celebrated Cirque of Gredos. This impressive group of mountains, made up of El Ameal de Pablo, Cerro de los Huertos and Risco Moreno, seem to be supporting the great watchman, El Almanzor, which at 2,592 metres is the highest peak in the Sistema Central (Central Mountain Range of Spain). Behind the Cirque of Gredos rises another impressive mass, La Galana 2,568m which looks down over the Cinco Lagunas (Five Lakes).
Beyond the five lakes and leaving the Cirque of Gredos behind us we can cross the Sierra of Boohoyo and the Sierra Llana (the Flat range) giving relief to the walker until we come to the slopes of the Covacha (2,399m), at whose northern base we find three more lakes formed by glacial waters; Laguna del Barco, Laguna de la Nava, and Laguna de los Caballeros. On our descent from the Cornavaca we come to the end of the Central Massif as we reach the pass of Puerto de Tornavacas. The River Tormes springs up here amongst pine fronds and meadows opposite the Parador of Gredos. From the town of Hoyos de Espino there is a route to what is known as “the platform of Gredos” from where there is easy access to the Laguna Grande, the Charco Esmeralda (Emerald Pool) and the central area of the Cirque of Gredos.

Towns and villages of Gredos and the Tormes Valley

In Hoyos del Espino we find a lot of attentive development has gone on to attend to the tourist but we can also enjoy the rustic charm of it’s streets and views, its architecture and it’s peoples. Visit the parish church of gothic style with many different reforms. A visit to the Puente del Duque (the Bridge of the Duke) is a must, the centre of life in the town; area of recreation; picnics, swimming, walking, horse riding, etc.

In Navarredonda de Gredos the parish tower is very impressive, once used for military defence. The Parador of Gredos is the oldest in Spain, founded by Alfonso XIII, and it is worth stopping here for a rest and a coffee and taking a look around. San Martin del Pimpollar is a typical mountain village of the area set in unspoilt surroundings, while from Navacepeda de Tormes you can reach an area of incredible, unspoilt natural beauty – “the Charco de Las Paredes” (the Pool of the Walls). Navalperal de Tormes is a very pretty village with an beautifully kept village square, fountain and church. It is a centrally located spot for setting off on many mountain walks and is a winter point of departure for cross country skiing. La Aliseda de Tormes is in a particularly beautiful location, set on the banks of the river, and whose landscape changes as the altitude drops from oak cover to pines. Bohoyo is a charming setting with many pretty “Casas Rurales” (rural holiday homes).

El Barco de Avila is well known for it’s wonderful beans. it is situated at the extreme eastern end of the Gredos mountain range. Places that were at the foot of a range and had the function of communicating two places were often given the name “barco” or “barquero” (boatman, ferryman). This seems to be the origin of the name of Barco de Avila as it is the communication point between Castilla and Extremadura. The River Tormes bathes this old town and a bridge that dates from the middle ages crosses it’s banks and leads to the Hermitage of the Christ.

The Castle of Valdecorneja is 15th century and lies between the river and the mountain. Parts of the old walls of El Barco are still intact. The parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción leads one to believe that it was designed by an old Avila master at the beginning of the 16th century because of it’s similarities to the cathedral in Avila. The church of San Pedro del Barco was built on the site of the house where the saint was born in 1080.

Other villages well worth a visit close to Barco de Avila are: Becedas, Navalonguila, Solana and Santiago de Aravalle.

Outdoor Sports and Activity Centres in Gredos

Hoyos de Espino

LA GALANA
Tel 920 349179
Equipment hire: mountain bikes, alpine skiing, cross country skiing, canoeing, walking and trekking...

Navarredondo de Gredos

GREDOS ACTIVO
Tel 920 348 045 | 615 027 286
Mountain bikes, archery, climbing, paintball, snowshoes...

GREDOS CENTE
Finca Cepeda Mingo
Tel 920 348 280
Cycling, horse riding, mountaineering, multiadventure, quads, paintball, walking,
bird watching...

Barajas

TURACTIV GREDOS
General Sanjurjo, 12 «La Fragua».
920 348 385 | 608 920 892
Walking and trekking, mountain bike orienteering, archery, abseiling, peak ascensions, river rafting, games etc.

For more outdoor activities in Avila:
Central reservations Casas de Gredos: 920 206204 920 206238

With special thanks to the Patronato de Turismo de Avila for permission to use this article and photographs.