World Heritage Sites : Camino de Santiago (St James's Way)

Overview

By horse, on a bicycle or on foot: these are the official forms of transport by which you can travel as a pilgrim along the route from the Spanish-French border to Santiago de Compostela, to the tomb of Saint James, or Santiago, in that city’s cathedral. What started as a symbol of Christian devotion has later been converted into one of European unity. The Council of Europe provided it with the status of the first European Cultural itinerary in 1987. Today, it still attracts an endless stream of pilgrims from across Europe and beyond. Apart from how one may officially travel along the route, there are other details visitors should take into account if they wish to follow the rules and eventually be eligible for the official certificate. For instance, special status is given to years in which the saint’s day for James falls on a Sunday; 2004, for instance, is such a year, or año jacobeo. Occurring about every six years, this is an ancient concession granted by the Catholic Church, which recognised that this pilgrimage route was as important as the one to Rome. As an incentive to pilgrims to do the route in a special year, there are extra indulgences and the pardoning of sins and it is in these years that the volume of pilgrims is at its highest - almost to the point of overcrowding! What many people are unaware of is that it is not obligatory to do the whole thing all at once. You may opt to cover one section at a time and collect the seal for that part of the route only. Together with the regulations, there is also a set of traditions, such as the donning of a scallop shell, the symbol of this pilgrimage.

The routes

Some say that the cathedral is not the endpoint of this journey and choose to continue to Finisterrra on Galicia´s north-western coast; the name of this town suggests that you have reached the end of this world. Others go on to sanctuary of San Andrés de Texido, on the northern coast. Indeed, there’s more than one way to reach Santiago. In fact there are six main itineraries that converge on Galicia. A pilgrim may come up along the coast from Portugal or through kilometres of rugged terrain from the South of Spain, or they can also cross the northern coast of Galicia. Although gaining in popularity these ways account for only a small proportion of the pilgrims and aren’t equipped with the refuges which are so plentiful on the French route – nor are they as well signposted. The French route is the classic one, awarded World Heritage status. It is also the most important with around 90% of pilgrims choosing this route. This camino francés starts in the Pyrenees, cuts through Navarra and León and then enters Galicia with the province of Lugo as its gateway. A slight variation of this passes through Lugo, the province’s capital city before being reunited with the main route in the next province, A Coruña.

Apart from the spiritual aspects or the challenge of such a physical endeavour, there are other factors that may lure potential pilgrims. Along the French route, there are about 1,800 historical landmarks and some of the most striking countryside in Spain. In Galicia, a first point of interest is the sanctuary of O Cebreiro, which, dating from about the tenth century, is the oldest monument along the route. The next stop is Tricastela, where pilgrims used to pick up a piece of limestone. They later deposited this at another town in an effort to amass building materials for Santiago Cathedral’s maintenance. Monasteries are found in both Samos and Sarria. The former monastery is beautifully situated and principally Baroque in style, while the latter is notable for its twelfth century and Renaissance origins and offers views of the surrounding countryside. Also in Sarria, there are fortress ruins and a Romanesque church. In 1230, the last Galician king, Alfonso IX, died in this town. Incidentally, the town is also known for its chorizo, or smoked sausage. At this stage, the countryside is less harsh as mountains give way to gentle hills and valleys. Portomarín stands out because its Romanesque church-fortress was moved piece by piece to its current hillside spot to make way for a reservoir. There are other architectural gems along this stretch of the route, including the twelfth century monastery of Vilar de Donas- containing an impressive doorway, murals and the tombs of the main figures belonging to the Order of Santiago- and the castle of Pambre, which is off the beaten track and privately owned, but worth a visit. Another diversion that is recommended is to San Antonio de Toques, a little chapel tucked away in a forested spot complete with waterfalls and one of the earliest examples of Romanesque architecture in Galicia. Melide and Arzúa are lively market towns, both with monuments to the Pilgrim’s Way. Not only is Melide the actual centre point of Galicia, geographically speaking, it represents the rural communities typical of this part of Spain. Both Melide and Arzua offer delicacies for the hungry tourist or deserving pilgrim: melindres cornmeal biscuits, octopus, game during the hunting season in autumn and early winter, beef year round, and locally produced cheese, a soft, full fat variety. As you approach Santiago and have to cross built-up areas, it is important to remember the sense of anticipation real pilgrims have felt at this point over the centuries. Labacolla, now home to a busy airport, was where these pilgrims used to bathe in preparation of reaching Santiago. The Concheiras district, near a shopping precinct, was where they would buy the scallop shell as an emblem of their pilgrimage. Nevertheless, a sense of history is retained at the crossroads called Porto do Camino, which has an old fountain and one of the many monasteries found in Santiago. The cathedral itself is a worthy climax and can take your breath away, even when you have lived in that city for a long time.
Useful websites
http://www.csj.org.uk/menu.htm
http://www.tourspain.es/Portal/EN/LeftNav/GREAT+ROUTES/default.htm
http://www.xacobeo.es/xacobeo2.asp?nave=exp

With thanks to Anita Demitroff for writing this guide